![]() So I chose to make a shim to take up most of the difference. It was 3/16" narrower and when tightened it will put stress on the welds holding the kingpin mount the is attaching it to the frame. You may find it fit perfectly, mine did not. I used the torque wrench on the nuts on the inside, because it was easier to remove a socket than the box end wrench that jammed itself against the inside of the king pin. I found two nuts and bolts that needed it. Do go back after your first trip and re-torque. It doesn't matter which is which since both the head and nut ride on the washers. You have to get ether the box end wrench inside or the torque wrench. ![]() I used the same grade bolts because higher rated bolts are not required, added two bolts because I could, and torquing at 160 ft/lbs in the space that is there is not exactly easy. I did not want to add side stress to the welds holding the plates that the king pin mounts to. The new Trailair Flex Air is about 3/16 narrower than the original king pin. The only problem with that is if you get hit in the rear, the welds could fail.) Lift the new king pin and align and install the other bolts. (Now you do not have to shim it, but not doing so puts the welds under stress. Once a set of holes align up, put a set of bolts in along with the shim between the king pin mount and the king pin to take up the slack, and start the nuts. Moved the truck under the fifth wheel and slowly lowered the front aligning the new king pin as I went. Trust me if yours is like mine you will need longer bolts. Purchased new longer bolts same hardness. ![]() Marked the center of each hole and drilled them out oversized. I got some aluminum bar stock, 1/8" thick, and cut it to length. ![]() I had to pound the old original pin box out. Loosened up the old bolts and removed them. Set forms up on the truck bed and parked under the king pin. ![]()
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